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Friday, September 17, 2010

1927 - Hubert de Givenchy (retired) work

Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy was born in 1927 in Beauvais, France. His father died when he was young, and he was brought up by his grandfather, an artist and expert tapestry maker.


In 1945 he begins his apprenticeship as a draughtsman for the couturier Jacques Fath while studying at the Ecole de Beaus Arts.
After a year, he joined Robert Piguet and then Lucien Lelong.


In 1950 he joined Elsa Schiaparelli where his bright youthful separates enchanted her clientele. After four years of collaboration, Hubert de Givenchy resigns from Schiaparelli, intent on opening his own couture house 1951. The somewhat overbearing couturiere thunderously dismisses him as «yet another bankruptcy». Hubert de Givenchy opens his own maison at n° 8, rue Alfred de Vigny, overlooking Paris’s Parc Monceau.


Foreseeing relaxed chic and the democratisation of luxury, which together marked the end of the century, in 1952 Givenchy launched «separates», light skirts and puff-sleeved blouses made from raw cotton – previously reserved for fittings only.


Two years later Hubert de Givenchy was the first major fashion designer to present a luxury ready-to-wear line, «Givenchy Université». More than any other, this was a designer who maintained close relations with his famous clients.


In 1953 one of Hubert de Givenchy’s designs was featured on the cover of Life magazine.
In 1954 upon the death of Jacques Fath, French entrepreneur Jean Prouvost asks Hubert de Givenchy to develop the first collection of high-end women’s ready-to-wear to be designed by a couturier. «Jacques Fath Université» thus becomes «Givenchy Université».


The line is manufactured in Paris’s 10th arrondissement garment district on industrial sewing machines imported from the United States.


Givenchy introduced his perfume L'Interdit in January 1957 but allowed only Audrey to use it for a whole year, only allowing it into the market in December. He designed clothes for her films "Funny Face", "Breakfast at Tiffanys" and others. He designed clothes for a total of 10 films in all.


Balenciaga had long been an idol to Givenchy and in 1953 he actually met him. They became friends and Balenciaga worked with him continuously to help Givenchy mature as a couturier. Balenciaga taught him how to minimize, how to avoid unnecessary detail, how to be involved in shape and colour.


Launch of the high-end ready-to-wear collection «Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique» in 1968, in association with French clothing manufacturer Mendès.


In 1973 Givenchy launches «Gentleman Givenchy», his first men’s ready-to-wear collection.
The always impeccably turned-out Hubert de Givenchy, forever on the arm of the world’s most iconic beauties, proves to be his new label’s own best marketing tool.


I'm so in love with Riccardo Tisci's work for Givenchy that I decided to look up historical images, the work of the original designer/founder of the house

Hubert de Givenchy


metmuseum.org

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